We left Chiang Mai and our dear guide Kee yesterday morning for Mae Hong Son and Noi. Mae Hong Son is a small town north of Chiang Mai, on the map for the Karen tribes that inhabit certain parts. Also known as the long neck people.

A long-tail boat dropped us off spitting distance from the Myanmar border, in a village of only 25 families. When we first stepped on shore, Nick whispered enthusiastically in my ear, “I see one,” as if we were on a safari. I was equally animated by the spotting, but the long necks didn’t flee in herds like the zebras of Africa. Moments later, we were strolling through the village, sitting next to young girls and watching grandmothers weave fabric. They were of course accustomed to tourists, but not corrupted by them. A “thank you” and glance at their handicrafts was enough payment for a photo and observation of their unique lives. The competition for my favorite hill tribe village is neck and neck, but there’s nothing not to love about the Karen people.

As we walked, Noi answered many of our questions. Do they ever take them off? Only to change them every three or four years. When do they start wearing the rings? They start anywhere from five to ten-years old, and, though they look like rings, they’re actually metal coils. How long do their necks get? The coils don’t make their necks grow longer. They weigh down on their shoulders and compress their ribs. Does it hurt them? (Nobody said it felt good).

The most obvious question though is “why?” Who got the idea to imitate that kids’ toy with the plastic donuts you stack on a stick? Some say it was to protect from tigers, but that seems like a stretch. Others say it was so non-tribe men wouldn’t find their women attractive. There are other theories as well, but no one’s certain it wasn’t just a fashion statement. A trendsetting Karen. If Paris started doing it, who knows how many people might follow?

After an elephant ride and Burmese temple, we headed back to the airport. We left an hour later, but not on a plane. Our flight got cancelled, and, though it only took 45 minutes to get there in the morning, it took 6 hours last night to get back. They said the reason for the cancellation was a long story, but offered vans to the disgruntled passengers. The change of plans was a pain in the neck, but Mr. Chai had clearly driven the winding road before, and got us to Chiang Mai before midnight.

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