It's not just any ol' day back in Hanoi. The 2nd of September in Vietnam is like our 4th of July. America recently celebrated 229 years of independence, here they're celebrating 60. Banners, posters, the face of Ho Chi Minh everywhere you look, and the flag (red with a yellow star in the center) outside of every house. Today is National Day.
But first - yesterday. Our last day in Sapa was quite an eventful one:
We studied our Lonely Planet guidebook, we got up early, we put on shoes instead of flip flops (for the first time all trip), and we were all set to do a nice long hike. Ten minutes into our walk down the road, however, our peaceful stroll was interrupted by loud yelling, blatantly directed at us. There was a split second where Jamie and I exchanged a "let's make a run for it" glance (not even knowing what they were yelling about), but then we came to our senses. We had apparently walked past a little booth on the side of the road where they checked for 1) a permission slip issued by a hotel and 2) a hilltribe guide. Basically, a tax on exploring the area. We didn't have either, unlike the other tourists we had been walking with that continued on. What to do, what to do...
Although we acted as if we were going back to our hotel to jump through the proper hoops, once out of sight we took the first turn off the main road. Most likely someone's driveway. After weaving through a few houses and hopping over a barbed wire fence, we found ourselves on a path. A narrow path used by the hilltribe people and their water buffalo. Not tourists.
Where one path ended, we picked up another one nearby (or not so nearby). No path? No problem. We improvised: balancing on the ridges of rice field terraces, sliding down slopes of mud...When dogs started barking and running towards us, we got to higher ground. When snakes slithered in front of us, we ran in the opposite direction. Rivers? Crossed 3. Bathrooms? Yeah right. The whole way little frogs and grasshoppers and who knows what else jumped out of our way. All along, avoiding the guard shack and keeping our eye on the main road above us. Oh, and ready to play the ignorant tourist, if need be.
Three hours later, 2 sweaty, mud-covered Americans worked their way back onto paved road. The hilltribe people, and the other tourists with their fancy papers and guides, were dumbfounded.
Cold water and shade - all we wanted. Shots of apple whisky? Not what we wanted exactly, but we accepted out of courtesy. Jamie and I rested for a while at this little store/house, hanging out with a clan of hilltribe girls. It's amazing how much you can communicate without speaking the same language.
And then it was strategy time - how to pass the guard shack (cause we definitely weren't going back the way we came).
Plan A - ask one of our new hilltribe friends to pretend to be our guide? Not one of those things you can communicate without the same language.
Plan B - try our luck and say we lost our permission slip (and guide), but what could they do at that point anyway? Didn't want to find out.
So Plan C it was - hitchhiking on the back of motorcycles and leaving the little guard shack in our dust. Worked like a charm.
The rest of the day (in order): food, shower, rest, food, pack, massage, food, train.
And here we are, back to today. National Day. People everywhere taking the day off and just chilling, mostly by the lake. As I walk the streets of Hanoi (the capital) on this crazy holiday, I wonder what is festive decoration and what is Communist propaganda. Or if there is a difference. Interesting.
Jamie's parents, Jamie, and I were invited to dinner at their friend Long's house tonight. A big celebration to be expected...
I think in honor of National Day, you all should go have a Vietnamese feast as well. Sound good?
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on Friday, September 2nd, 2005 at 3:43 am in II. Vietnam.
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Heyyyyyyyyyyyyy long time no talk sorry I haven’t been able to write, it’s been crazy with school these days getting everything together and there’s so many little things to do… get my computer running (still doesn’t really work so i’m on a school comp now)… get outa trouble w/ the law (already got a citation for a minor in possession of alcohol, they apparently give them out left and right here so it’s always quite fun to have to go to court, which i have to do in a couple of weeks. everything sounds great with you and i love catchin up w/ your stories (except the one about eating dog which dasher would be very upset at u for) hope the rest is well and I’ll try to write more posts as soon as my comp works, which is hope is soon all the best -steve
September 2nd, 2005 at 9:05 amCharlie! I’m so jealous! I just finished catching up on your posts I missed while at Camp Harmony, and they were amazing, everything you’re doing sounds amazing! I just finished telling Nick that you are really a great writer- and really made me wish I could be there with you. (it’s like a summer program that never ends) I really love reading your posts everyday and look forward to the next one…I miss you so much big brother! (PS- tell me more about meeting 4 nipple man, aka steve. haha)
September 2nd, 2005 at 10:07 amLove, Gabi
It seems each of your sojourns transforms into a formidible challenge. Our misadventures tend to become messy but unthreatening. Nonnie and I once lost what the guide book insisted was an alleged trail in the middle of the Cotswolds. Found no guards, no rivers to cross and no muddy slopes, but did discover substantial evidence of well-nourished animals and, despite nonexistence of any country inn, a then puzzling sign stating “no tipping” in the middle of the woods. Turned out to mean do not deposit your garbage here, buddy.
September 2nd, 2005 at 12:33 pmLove,
Papa
hey charlie!! been obviously keeping up everyday with reading hte posts…you are an unbelievable writer and really should turn these posts into some kind of novel by the end of your trip, really…anyway, can twait for pictures! updates: helen, ali and i miss you…first football game tomorrow, so excited…but ya im so unbelievably happy, i didnt think adjusting would go this smoothly but it did and im so glad for it because im so genuinely happy…anyways, thanks for being my daily newspaper, it makes me feel like im right there with ya…and seeing as im a little bit obsessed with pictures (as you know) i cannot wait to see yours when you get them up here…miss you tons and keep the adventures coming! love ya!
September 3rd, 2005 at 12:09 amconnie
So I just wrote another essay for you and accidentally closed safari and lost it, so it goes. I’ll try to recreate it:
weeeeeehaaaaacooooooshoooooohooooodeeeeehooooodeeeeeeehooooo
Sup bro bro - So guess what, I did yoga today! It was great! Melissa finally convinced me to go and I’m so glad that I did. Great workout. I’ve been wanting to exercise all summer and really have had no motivation (considering that as is I have such a hot bod). But having a class to go to makes it much easier. To that end, I found a studio in Harvard Square and am pretty sure I’m going to become a member and go three or four times a week. So watch out, because besides being toned to perfection I’m going to be an expert on eastern philosophy, so if you have any questions while on your travels I’m the one to ask.
Last day at the Mac Store went well. We bought a lot of stuff (computer sleeve, isight, ipod for dad, airport express for mom), some sad goodbyes, it was a great place to work. Then I went to yoga with Meliss, then to Pane Fresco with the rest of the Bank Family (Carmen’s obsessed with publishing your writings, she thinks she has a publisher and all, haha). Actually saw Taylor Morgan there. Meliss leaves tomorrow, can’t say that I’m that sad because I’ll be seeing her so soon, yay!
Have to wake up early tomorrow to go into Beverly Hills and Century City with mom to run some errands, then lunch with Wendy and Rachel, Rach leaves in a few days. (NOTE - if you don’t like my new style of filling you in on everything in my life while you’re off traversing the globe let me know, I could try haikus…or launch www.nickisinhisdormroom.com and post every day like you
.
As for gifts, I was thinking of breaking the mold a little. I know you pin me as the ignorant tourist (case in point that picture book), so I thought that instead of a beer shirt or something you could try to find me a little something that’s extremely authentic, that you can’t get anywhere else (no dog please though). Then I could wear it/display it/show it and say that Charlie got that for me when he was in _____, and you can’t get it anywhere else. I thought that would be cool. Sound okay? And no pressure with the gifts, you don’t have that much space and I”ll only love you a little less if I don’t have 29 presents or something like that
. Thanks for the thought. Not to sound corny but this website is also a gift to us all, I really look forward to reading it every day (and when you don’t post I just read all the comments, is that weird??)
Anywho, I’m off to bed, hope your last few days in Vietnam are going well. Love ya!
-LB
September 3rd, 2005 at 2:21 amWow! You have intrigued and charmed us with your adventures. Stay charming and well. and influencing motorcycles.
September 6th, 2005 at 2:23 pmLove, Yours admirers.