Today was just your average day: woke up at 5:30, brushed my teeth, had some tea, walked a mile or so, heard the Dalai Lama speak…ya know, nothing special.
But seriously, today was one of the coolest days of my life. To celebrate the 45th anniversary of the Tibetan Children's Village (TCV), a school community for the many refugee children, His Holiness the Dalai Lama (HHDL) made an appearance in front of the hundreds of people that gathered there this morning. Chris, Bear, Steve, and I made the 40-minute walk/pilgrimage from our hostel, and arrived there at sunrise. We reserved front row seats on a grassy slope, then filled up on momos (Tibetan dumplings) and tea.
Although the place was fairly empty at that time, as it neared 9 o’clock, people flooded into the school ground to find a seat where they could – maroon monks up in the trees, students in their uniforms on the steps, and the occasional tourist near the track. Almost all Tibetan-run businesses were closed in McLeod Ganj.
While we waited for HHDL to arrive, I walked around the track taking photos of the eager children perched on the stone terraces. I met a group of school boys, one charismatic kid in particular named Tenzin (the Dalai Lama’s name and consequently a common one for children), who invited me to sit next to them. Without hesitation, I accepted the seat just yards away from where HHDL would be entering. In return, I bought them a feast of momos that they quickly devoured. Since they were born in Tibet, a bunch of them spoke Chinese. As they began to warm up to me, I learned how they were separated from their families at ages 5, 6, 7 and sent across the border, safe from the Chinese invasions.
The grand entrance was spectacular. At 9 sharp, it all happened at once: the hundreds of people stood up, the rows of students on the track waved their flags and beat their drums, the girls in elaborate costumes sang a magical high-pitched (Braveheart-like) chant, a few cars rushed in out of nowhere, an umbrella was opened, press photographers swarmed in, the smoke of incense formed clouds, and a mob of people huddled around the Dalai Lama as he made his way up the stairs to his shaded seat under a bright yellow canopy. I would’ve sworn he made eye contact with me, “so I got that going for me.” I got some great photos and short movie clips that depict the scene better than I ever could.
The day was full of speeches, songs, dances, and other ceremonies to commemorate 45 years, but the arrival of the Dalai Lama was the most incredible. (I’m sure he said some great things as well, but my 11-year old translators couldn’t really capture his eloquence in English.) A minute of my life I will never forget.
This entry was posted
on Sunday, October 23rd, 2005 at 6:47 am in V. India.
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wow! Charlie this trip sounds even more amazing than I imagined it would be. Sorry I haven’t posted in a while, but i’ve been reading all of yours!
October 23rd, 2005 at 1:32 pmlots of love,
~Hailey
Well, you’ve definitely got that going for you now. But did the Lama stiff you on the caddy job? Can’t wait to look at the pix. Just got back from hectic 30th reunion. Saw a bit of your peripatetic brother (I think he covers about as much territory as you do on a daily basis, it’s just all confined to the Harvard campus and environs), went to say good-bye to him today around 12:45 in the afternoon, called on his cell phone, pounded on his door. No answer. We left; he finally checked in with us around 3, having just woken up. He was actually in his room when we were there, just dead to the world. Your brother…We had a guest speaker at the reunion, a classmate of mine named Wade Davis (we spent freshman year in the same dorm) who is now explorer-in-residence at National Geographic. He had us all mesmerized with stories and slides from his many years of astounding travels and adventures from around the globe. Will fill you in when we see you, but I have his email address and it may be worth a conversation at some point. Much more to tell, but your mom and I literally just got back from Boston; it’s 10:50 LA time, 1:50 am Boston time. And so to bed. Love, YGOP
October 23rd, 2005 at 10:50 pmCharlie - Your last post is a good reminder of the seriously awesome and important things that are out there to see and do. I’ve been buried in work, work and even more work and not sleeping at all, and while I like to pretend that I can sleep when I’m dead, I’m finding that I really can’t function and be polite with the few hours I’m getting each night. So, in short, your email reminded me of my favorite quote, “Every man dies. Not every man truly lives.” You are truly living Charlie. Miss you and love you.
October 24th, 2005 at 4:05 amcharlie! wow i cant even describe how amazing it is to hear about all this stuff…everyday in my architectural history class i see these buildings from places youre going to or have been on slides and just realize how lucky you are to be there in person and experience not only the buildings, but the people and hte lifestyle as well…what i learn in the classroom doesnt do it justice…anyways, just had parents weekend..it was great to see them (and get a few good meals in as well! haha)…i think we dropped a few hundred dollars at the classy boutique known as target…had to stock up for the winter haha..anyways, been thinking about thanksgiving and how much we’re gonna miss you at home…wish we could call you or soemthing but these posts will have to do…miss you so much and can’t tell you how much i admire you for what youre doing..much love
October 24th, 2005 at 8:19 amcon
hey there stranger, im back on the public posts again. Just spent a little bit of time catching up on my charlie travels…I read your last post aloud to everyone in my room just now because your experiences are so incredible that I like to think I’m cool by association. No really though - to me, this last post about the Dalai Lama really captures your trip in a nutshell.
October 24th, 2005 at 9:43 amI hope you liked that post from my roomie, just goes to show you that you really are famous around here.
Miss you and love you tons,
Em
P.S. Its 43 degrees outside right now
charlie
October 24th, 2005 at 12:33 pmyou are doing something that I have wanted to do my whole life. I Took a year off from school, so that I could travel,but ended up taking photography classes, and staying in stinky l.a. I miss you. It has most likley been 5 years orr more. I adore you, and am soo into what your doing kid.
take care and say hello to all the ethnic children for mee.
xo
katie burton
Christ Charlie. The Dalai Lama, huh? I would expect nothing less of you. It sounds like you’re having the most incredible experience. I’m slightly jealous . . .
I hope your days continue to be more exciting and interesting. I’m sure they will. What an amazing year. As for me, I’ll be drowning in my calculus and nerdiness for the next several months!! AAA!! It’s refreshing to read up on your travels and put a bit of culture back into my life. Can’t wait till you come join me in Cambridge!!
xoxo,
October 24th, 2005 at 5:59 pmSarah
Was the Dali speaking the sainted Cantonese? Hope so. Keep it up, sounds like a great time.
S&M
October 24th, 2005 at 8:57 pmWhen I first read that you made eye contact with the Dalai Lama, I got angry again. But then I thought to myself, How can I be angry about that? It’s the Dalai Lama for crying out loud! So then I thought “Ooooooooom” and thought about how the river is everywhere at once and things were all better again. What a trip, eh?
October 24th, 2005 at 9:28 pmHey Charlie,
October 24th, 2005 at 10:31 pmIt was so good to get to talk to you! I’ve been really busy lately, but not too busy to keep up with you…just wanted to let you know that reading your amazing posts is really a great escape for me from all the stress of school. I just have one question- so when you shared a room with Steve, did you check out his 4 nipples? Haha, just wondering. Let me know what you thought. I love you and miss you!
xoxo, Gabi
Mrs. Stakich - didn’t mean to scare you, haha. i promise chris and i are being extremely safe.
October 25th, 2005 at 9:13 am