More goodbyes. Today we said goodbye to MB and his wonderful family, and also to Tharanga. Once again, time flew. There were also hellos, however… Hello, Dambulla! Located in the center of the country, Dambulla’s main attractions are its 5 caves temples built into an enormous rocky outcrop. The ceilings, the walls – all intricately hand-painted frescos, often telling a story. And Buddhas sitting, standing, and reclining everywhere (that’s it: sit, stand, lie down. Like an obedient dog.). Dambulla is also home to the largest Buddha statue in the world. It’s a giant gold one that sits atop a Golden Temple that you enter through a golden dragon’s mouth. Dambulla or Las Vegas? Hello, Wadduwa! We broke up the long drive from the north to the south by spending a night in Wadduwa, a little beach town. Our options were limited in terms of hotel rooms, so Kyle and I ended up in the honeymoon suite. Ocean view. Very romantic. And then goodbye, Wadduwa. After a run along the beach and swim in the ocean, we packed our bags. But then hello, Sinharaja! A rainforest trek. Sinharaja is the largest stretch of untouched rainforest in Sri Lanka (and quite possibly a character in Aladdin). We did a nice 2-hour loop with a guide who pointed out birds, snakes, chameleons, trees, etc. along the way. No need to point out the leeches – I could feel them on my feet every 5 seconds. Then adios, Sinharaja. And finally, helloooo, Unawatuna! From leeches to beaches. And what a name – Unawatuna! It’s hard to believe that less than a year ago all of the hotels, restaurants, houses, were destroyed by the tsunami. The town has bounced back incredibly, especially compared to the stretches of beach on either side still at ground zero. As for the people, it’s confusing and fascinating. Similar to how I felt in Vietnam, the people seem to betray history on the surface. It’s when you get to know someone that the layers unfold. In Vietnam, a war. In Sri Lanka, a tsunami. Walking down the beach I feel the joy, the appreciation for life. One of the guys at my hotel joked about running into the jungle as the wave crashed into the lobby, saying with a broad smile, “Everyone die. I die tomorrow, I be happy. But hope not die.” At the same time, however, lives were destroyed. Everyone is tangled in an exhaustingly slow process of rebuilding. Restaurant signs hang above ruins. And the fear. This girl Shama I met at the internet café told me how she clung to her ceiling fan as water filled her home up to her nose. She invited me to join family dinner at her house (where I met Mama, the kind of mother who treats everyone like her own), and told me as we walked up the stairs that they all live in a small room upstairs now. There was a rumor yesterday that another tsunami was coming. Luckily just a rumor, but people ran. We’re staying here (or nearby) for the remainder of the trip. The pace is beginning to slow down, and it’ll be nice to settle in one spot and get a feel for the area before moving on. And this time, moving on means goodbye, Sri Lanka.

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