CARNAVAL!
Though the point of Carnaval is universal, the execution of it varies place to place. In New Orleans (where it’s of course called Mardi Gras), it’s tradition to exchange beads for peep shows. In Venice, elaborate costumes and spooky masks create an aura of mystery. Countries all across South America claim to do it best, and an even bigger debate occurs between the cities of Brazil. Locals are naturally very biased, but first place is often given to either Rio or Salvador da Bahia. It depends what you want, however. Extravagance? Tradition? Pageantry? Participation?
Jessemin and I love Rio, but we chose Salvador after hearing that its Carnaval occurs primarily on the streets. We were told there’s a decent amount of order to the parades and that participation is invited. We were also intrigued by the strong African influence, for Salvador was the central port during the slave trade. We arrived yesterday afternoon, adding two more to the total of around two million people here right now. The guidebook’s description of our hostel is “very basic, but good location,” and that sums it up quite well. It’s walking distance from all the action, but not listening distance. The cobble stoned streets, pastel houses, and aged churches give the neighborhood an antique feel that is a nice refuge from the nearby madness. (The band U2 must agree, for they’re staying a block away.)
We quickly discovered that there are 3 ways to take part here. The one that requires the least planning (but the most caution) is to be “pipoca” (popcorn) in the streets. It’s a great word for it. Bodies are all over the place, frenetic and free. You can easily duck out from the craziness and watch from the sideline…until a second wind pops you back in. The opposite approach is to buy seats in a “camarote.” These walled-off bleachers allow you to calmly observe from above. Both have their advantages, but joining a “bloco” is the most popular choice. Inside a roped-off area, one band blasts its music atop a “trio eletrico” (large truck with enormous speakers) while crowded fans dance and sing along. Security is the most appealing aspect of the blocos, but VIP prestige is surely a bonus. Only people wearing the band’s “abada” are allowed inside. It’s the ticket and the costume – colorful and outrageous, ranging from white turbans and saris to pink afros and bikinis. The more popular the band, the more expensive the abada. There’s a huge network of wheeling and dealing among locals, and, for groups like Timbalada and Chiclete com Banana, prices can get up to 500 dollars. Abadas for next year will go on sale next week.
There’s clearly a lot to think about when making plans for Carnaval. If you’ve decided on Brazil – Rio or Salvador? If Salvador, do you join a bloco, go pipoca, or hang in the camarote? If you join a bloco, which one? Which night? Which circuit? Do you bring a camera, knowing that pickpockets are numerous with hands shameless? Do you stuff cash in your shoe or your underwear?
After much deliberation, Jessemin and I decided to spend our first night of Carnaval with the Olodum bloco, a hugely famous Afro-Brazilian reggae-samba group. Their abada looked quite comical on a white boy like me. (Photos will soon prove it.) Since Olodum is one of the favorites, it was saved for last. We were all ready at 9 o’clock, but it didn’t take off until 2:30am.
There were plenty of spectacles to keep us occupied, however. In addition to passing blocos of men in drag and other ridiculous outfits, booming drum corps provided the rhythm for loads of independent dancing groups. The music never stopped. One after another, the costumes were vibrant, the movements explosive, the attitude hedonistic. “Capoeira” was especially fascinating to watch. Originally developed by slaves, it’s a dance integrated with martial arts. Two people engage in fluid, spontaneous combat (never touching one another) while the circle of people around them keeps the beat.
When Olodum was ready to go, Jessemin and I (and a bunch of Israelis and Brits we had met) entered the bloco and danced our way along the circuit. It was packed inside the rope and packed outside, making it hard to tell exactly who was part of it. After two hours, we made our way out while the parade carried on to the end. We began to head down a side street, but a few guys stopped us, saying “perigoso” (dangerous). We thought it best to wait for Olodum to finish passing and then head back in the direction we came - a road lined with police posts. While we waited, I took the memory card out of my camera just in case.
We got back to our quiet little hostel around 5 o’clock and woke up sometime this afternoon, ready to do it again. (The way college is, right guys?) The thing us tourists are constantly reminding each other is that it’s a marathon, not a sprint. The world’s biggest party lasts 6 nights.
Ah, the getting of wisdom. Pace yourself for the party.
Sounds fantastic. Just steer clear of those peligroso streets, senor.
Your mother and I are going to watch a Monty Python special at home tonight, wild party-goers that we are. We may even have a glass of wine. Get back.
Party on, Wayne.
Love,
YGOP
February 25th, 2006 at 5:28 pmCHARLIE FOI MUITO LEGAL TE CONHECER, ESPERO QUE CURTA MUITO O CARNAVAL DE SALVADOR E LEVE TODA A NOSSA ALEGRIA E AXÉ.
February 25th, 2006 at 6:35 pmVOLTE SEMPRE!!!!!!
OLÁ QUERIDO FOI MUITO BOM AJUDAR VOCÊS, ESPERO QUE GOSTEM DO CARNAVAL E VOLTEM SEMPRE!!!!
February 25th, 2006 at 6:48 pmAXÉ
AS MENINAS DA EMTURSA/ TOURIST INFORMATION
FOI ÓTIMO CONHECE-LOS, ESPERO QUE DIVIRTAM-SE BASTANTE E LEVEM CONSIGO TODA A MAGIA E ENCANTAÇÃO QUE SALVADOR OFERECE A TODOS OS SEUS VISITANTES.
February 25th, 2006 at 7:06 pmola wanted I want that you says to the Jessemin that I liked it very, and wait that it comes to see me! kisses
February 25th, 2006 at 11:52 pmCharlie I miss you…but I feel a little better knowing we are celebrating the same holiday for a change! I’m sure Carnaval is much better in Brazil but it has been pretty crazy over in the Netherlands. This entire weekend has been a pre-party for today. Costumes, singing, dancing, and most of all beer. I think I even saw Children holding beer cans. I’m not sure they care as much about the tradition out here but they do know how to have a good time. I was a little creative and I tried to dress up…I was going for a peacock (because I had a lot of colorful feathers) but it didn’t really work. But then I saw everyone else dressed in the most random, colorful garments ever that I fit right in. Anyway, enjoy the rest of your time in Brazil and take care! I miss you and love you sooooo much Charlie!!
February 26th, 2006 at 10:26 amxoxox meliss
OLA QUERIDO FOI, dile a todas estas chicas o mujeres que yo entiendo lo que te dicen. GOSTEM MUITO el CARNAVALE pero con CUIDADO!!!! Mucha ALEGRIA Carlos. SEMPRE!!!
February 26th, 2006 at 1:07 pmHola mi hermano!!!!
First off, what’s with all the Portuguese posts?! You and your crazy Brazilian friends. How’s Sur America? Sounds fun by the looks of things, and why haven’t I gotten a phone call yet!!!
Just sitting in my room about to go to bed. Marco and I actually did some redecorating/manual labor this weekend and switched things up so that instead of having a common room and a bedroom we now have two singles. It’s great actually, I have a nice little room all to myself! Also had dinner at Belmont today - the fam sends their love.
Well I’m off to bed, you better call me soon! Adios!
Obrigado (thank you?),
Nicolo
February 26th, 2006 at 11:10 pmi CANNOT believe i missed your call!!! i was in class!! im so upset…in the message you said you would try again if you got a chance and i really hope you do cuz i miss you SO much and really want to talk! it was so good hearing from you though and thank you SO much for calling!! you sounded like you were having an awesome time! xoxo
February 27th, 2006 at 4:16 pmcon
Hi Charlie, I’m from Bs As - Argentina, I really enyojed your page. I love travelling. Your pictures are amazing. I ‘ve become a fan of your trips. Have a good time in Brazil! Bye byeeeee
February 27th, 2006 at 6:13 pmHey!
February 27th, 2006 at 6:41 pmWe hope you arent having more fun than us, since we are at the number one party school. (which you are obviously coming to visit next year!)
Sounds like youre having so much fun though.
We miss you tons
xoxox
ahhh it was so great hearing your voice again!! thank you SO much for calling, it was the best birthday present ever! and im glad youre safe now! be careful!! have so much fun the rest of carnaval, love you to pieces!
February 28th, 2006 at 7:40 amcon
literally thirty seconds after i hung up with you i had THE WORST NIGHT OF MY LIFE. call me soon. ventage required.
February 28th, 2006 at 9:59 pmPacing yourself is one way to put it. Getting too drunk means you can’t keep up with the action is my way of viewing it. I came in under budget for Carnaval because I didn’t expect how LITTLE I would drink. Then again, your budget might be structured a little differently than mine was… One tip: get yourself some “vitamina B complexo.” take a couple sometime during the night. Life saver. Axe!!!
Annisi, Helane and Fabiana eh? what are you passing out cards with your website on it?
February 28th, 2006 at 10:21 pmCharlie, I have become one of your biggest fans, checking out what you are doing each week during my lunch hour at work. Vicarious travel: I mean, even if I ever got to all these wonderful places, I am not likely to jump out of airplanes , scuba dive or even drive for two weeks in a camper van. Your book - assuming this will be the next step, or maybe it should be your FILM - is going to sell like hotcakes, certainly to aged people like me.
Last night at a pancake party, I gave your web address to Ruth Whitten, 22, who finished doing Geography at Oxford about 18 months ago and has been living working in London. Ruth is about to leave for Buenos Aires for 3 months. She will stay at first with family friends, and then study Spanish and live with a local family. She and some Oxford friends plan to go hiking in Patagonia for a couple of weeks. We haveknown this family since David went to high school with her father, and we stayed with them in their house in Bali when Jim and her brother were toddler friends. Her father manages World Bank projects all around the Pacific Rim and they lived in Washington DC for 5 years (also Sumatra and Java in Indonesia-he is an ecologist).
Keep up the good work. Carnaval sounds wild.
March 1st, 2006 at 6:50 amSounds like an awesome time Charlie. I have to admit, you just inspired me to head to Brazil - Salvador -bloco - Olodum - the pioca for next year. How can one go through life and miss the biggest 6-day party of the year? Keep on rockin, keep on enjoyin, and keep on spreadin the love - Buena Suerte Charlie!
March 1st, 2006 at 6:08 pm