Braids and Bowler Hats   



It’s said that Bolivia is the Tibet of the Americas – a comparison instantly clear upon arrival into Uyuni. Spanish is widely spoken, but often second to the indigenous languages of Quechua and Aymara. The pace of the people matches the simplicity of the towns; no one’s dashing to a meeting or rushing to see a new flick. A curb or bench is much more appealing.

As one of only two landlocked countries in South America, Bolivia has managed to preserve traditional customs unlike any other place I’ve seen. The terrain is some of the most rugged on the continent, but the people couldn’t be friendlier.

“They actually dress like that!” I exclaimed to Julie over and over again. I’m yet to see a Bolivian girl I would call sexy, but that’s not what they go for here. The women are strong and conservative, giving the impression that they could nurture their babies, knit mittens, cook dinner, and sumo wrestle all in a hard day’s work. It seems like a rite of passage to become rotund, for all the classic accessories look much better on a bigger body type: the leggings, the flat shoes (often made from tires), the puffy dress, the blouse, the layers of sweaters and petticoats and aprons, the shawls they drape across, and the vibrant blanket to hold anything from groceries to babies. Even on the slender ones, the bundles of clothing have a Russian nesting doll effect, building them up with each layer.

To top all that off is a bowler hat, sitting three sizes too small upon their heads. That’s my favorite touch, for it’s just so random. Some are squat and round – Charlie Chaplin style, while some are tall and cylindrical – Cat in the Hat style. In both cases, their black hair is parted in the center with two long braids joined together near the waist. There’s usually a band or two on the back of the apron to guide the rope-like locks down the back. In my experience, the women don’t love having their photos taken, so look out for an album called “Backs of Bolivia.”

3 Responses to “Braids and Bowler Hats”

  1. YANINA :

    HOLAAA!! COMO ANDAS? POR DONDE ESTAS? ….

    VI LAS FOTOS ESTAN MUY LINDAS, QUISE LEER ALGO PERO NO ENTIENDO MUCHO. ESPERO QUE ESTES BIEN Y TE MANDO UN ABRASO Y UN BESO GIGANTE…..

    MUCHA SUERTE Y EXITOS CAHU CHAU…..

  2. Nonnie :

    And so the adventures continue! I shall never again take salt for granite!! We missed you at Passover, Charlie, making it especially great that you called! I love reading your almost daily entries. Can’t always get the pictures to come through ( a computer g enius I’m most assuredly not!) but I assume there will be a “master album” to study upon your return. (And Papa and I have a copy of the DVD your Dad made - it’s thrilling!). Hope the journey continues to delilght and amaze! Sending lots of love, always, from Nonnie

  3. Talya Peltman :

    what would you say if i told you that you and are going to be 15 minutes away from eachother next year?
    suplies, suplies (”surprise said with a thai accent) i am going to Tufts! so i will definately be seeing you in boston.

    also another suplies, i have been keeping up with your website all year, though i haven’t had anything significant to say until now.

    one more suplies, my guess is that you are headed to peru next and that is wonderful. my sister and i spent spring break hiking the inca trail and it was amazing. if you have any questions about it don’t hesitate to ask. i would love to hear from you.
    best,
    Talya

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